6/14/2023 0 Comments Lymon wood runaboutLyman also used light framing on close center spacing, which can cause tension cracks as the boat dries and gets wet repeatedly. ![]() Check the ends of the planking at the stem and transom, look for cracks in the planking and separation along the seam. The transom framing also is known to rot. If you have the garboard off, replace the stopwaters. The frame ends rot baddy there and should be checked. In the forward areas of the boat where the stem comes down and meets the keel, the frames are pocketed into the side of the keel. Lyman's have common issues that you should look into. Also should I soak the ply before I bend it for the top coat?(like over the bow where it has a curve) Anyone got any idea's how I should support this to make it easier to work on? Also what works good as a general stripper? I was going to use either a heat activiated one or just something simple like Formby's. I'm new to restoration but no stranger to wood so any advise would be appriciated. The transom rot is small about 3/4 inch thick all the way thru both boards.(the hole was drilled at a seem so it rotted about 7/16 on one and about 5/16 on the other.) I was thinking I could just bevel cut it both ways and then reverse bevel cut a new piece and epoxy it in. ![]() I am going to use epoxy sealer for the open grain like the top coat, interior ect and a good epoxy paint on the bottom. My question to all of you is before I strip it and jump in is should I do anything like attempt to swell it ect. This is in good restorable condition with the only rot being the top coat plywoood and some transom rot where the previous owner drilled the holes to mount the engine. I just purchased an old 1957 or so Lyman runabout for restoration.
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